Exotic tops inspired by tropical resorts floated through the latest collection of Yusuke Takahashi‘s for Issey Miyake, departing the creation from a particular Japanese impression. With a conceptual attitude the designer created a new connection between tropics and luxury approach. As the sounds filled the space, models walked a white wood catwalk, drawing attention to enchanting jackets and perfectly cut bottoms. As stylish as witty at the same time, the collection was like a beating of a butterfly’s wings bringing freshness and summer reminiscence. Straightforward suaveness found the expression in full of board creases short forms and blotchy ocean blue prints. As the show advanced the motifs, the prints immersed into a amalgamate of unfading Hawaiian shirt and currently omnipresent, all-pervasive digital prints, quenching a need for secret thoughts and feelings expressed in the selection of prints, that were dramatic graphics handmade by Kyoto artisans. Miyake’s distinctive pleating was dyed with four different blue shades. Cobalt gained a shine and a spreading out intensity. A touch of fun that soaked through the silhouettes was akin to a fresh air breath. Takahashi proved that his sprightly viewpoint was exactly what the fashion house needed to move into the lead. In the interview the designer acquainted us with his career story, philosophy of the collection and upcoming future plans.
How did your fashion adventure begin?
I had lot of influences from my grandfather who was an architect and the relationship with him made me realize how I was fascinated by all kinds of designs. I studied textile design, criticism of art and fashion design at university in Tokyo and London. As I was studying, I realized that I was captivated by Mr. Miyake’s works and how he continues to create something new. I won the SO-EN prize for young fashion designers and that is how I was introduced to Mr Miyake. I joined MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO shortly after.
The fashion industry is very competitive. When you first started, how difficult was it?
When I first started I was given an opportunities to design a shoe line for the collection at 132 5. ISSEY MIYAKE. Those designs ended up not being produced as a product, however this experience taught me to consider not only about the design but also its productivity in order to actually sell them as a product in the market.
In your own words, how would you describe the signature Issey Miyake style?
Textile research, simple shapes and comfort for everyday life.
What is the philosophy and main inspiration for the collection?
I was inspired by exotic resorts, and the SPRING SUMMER 2015 ISSEY MIYAKE MEN collection took on a pop and tropical new dandyism. Unusual fibers such as abaca, pineapple and kibira (type of linen) were utilized to make elegant and sporty resort wear. I hope the collection invited you on a journey through rampant jungle to white sandy beaches, diving into shiny emerald green seas in search of dark ocean bed mysteries.
How important is presentation for you?
Show is important for me as it enables to show our teamwork and to get feedbacks from international press; it also helps me to understand the expectations from our customers.
What is your favorite piece from your collection?
For me, the 1st look of the show is very representative from this collection with tropical textile, exotic fruit prints and elegant attitude. I like the blue gradation suit very much, which is also characteristic of this tropical dandyism…. And the over sized gray coat represents a man of the exotic resort very well.
The piece of clothing every man should have is…
The piece gone through research and development to suit everyday life of modern men.
What is your ultimate aspiration and where do you see yourself in 3 years time?
I hope I can continue my researches and travel around the world for great inspirations. My ambition is to renew ISSEY MIYAKE MEN style while keeping alive the heritage of Mr. Miyake.