Walter Van Beirendonck is one of a few designers who draw attention on the modern world aspects and make us mindful. Each of his seasons is giving an opportunity to broader the horizons, be more conscious and react. Catwalk presentation is not only a new collection showtime, for him it is a moment to bring up important section and make a statement that is always expressed by his silhouettes. His strong consciousness and care for the world is separating him from the rest of fashion stage, making his creations uniquely idiosyncratic.
In the Spring Summer 2015 collection the Antwerp Six designer combined fascination and fear. Presenting the full beauty of his collection along with extraordinariness and overabundance in equal degree he accentuated a dissimilarity of the world we are living. Experimenting not only with motifs fusion but also with the presentation form he decided to show the collection at Garage Lübeck. His Men’s collection entitled „Whambam” was a voicing of incongruity, contrasting a paradise with a veiled darkened of the world. Walter Van Beirendonck like no one else merged such murky thoughts with such apparently buoyant and chucklesome garments. Exotic reconfiguration combining bird-alike look, with make-up creation dividing faces into two different parts were a signs of the world ambiguity and unpredictability. On one side, they were kept in monochrome, on the other, bursted with a mix of colors. Prints were perfectly mixed, brocade parts added to suffused with floral motifs back sides intensified richness, highlighting the sublimit tailoring of clothing and dovetailing with each other. Beautiful world full of variability found it’s full moon in through the collection. To know more about a mix of inspirations and designer’s work sphere we asked him some questions.
Your show was truly visionary.
You know, every collection say itself a story and it’s important because the way I work in fashion is also a communication and I really like to express something.
What was your inspiration for this year?
It’s a bit complicated one but it’s more about the actual situation of the world we are living in, on the one hand it’s a beautiful world, beautiful nature, beautiful animals, everything; but on the other hand there is so much aggression in and so much war and so much pollution and that was the thing I wanted to express in this collection.
Yes, right. even with the shark it’s like a huge expression of anger. actually it’s a beautiful nature, an animal that on it’s own is not dangerous for anybody but here we can see like the whole anger. it’s also a bit of horror vacui for me, i mean putting so many things together, patterns, floral motives, animal figures, shining pieces is making exactly an expression of the mess of the world.
That’s it. I called it WHAMBAM, it’s an expression to let people think and to let to react people also, try to improve it or change it. It was exactly what the question was about it’s about beautiful beaches but also with a blood on the beaches. The second important inspiration is Papua New Guinea, I think they are really fantastic, they also do incredible aesthetic and than beautiful rituals and than they work with nature, enjoying nature.
I guess it’s a part of the thing, that we are separated from, among the european civilization.
Yes, and there is religious which is also a very important thing in this collection. They really adore and think that the planes and the boat that appeared in Papua New Guinea in the 40s during the war between Japan and Jamaica were for them like God sent and arriving from the aliens world. That kind of feeling for somebody who was leaving there very privative way and suddenly saw a plane must be a very big shock. One of those planes that came was Whambam, so that’s why i used that name as a collection name.
There are lots of animal motives here, a lot of nature inspiration. I love the fabrics.
The fabrics are really important. I really have a very particular type in mind and I was searching for really couture fabrics. Some of them were made specially for the collection. The way i put them together is also very exclusive.
Even we can see lots of patterns and colors the collection is very chic. What are your plans for the future? Will your line go further in this direction or do you plan any major changes?
I’m working very spontaneously. I cannot really predict how it will evolve, it’s evolving every season. I have a complete freedom in my mind, I have a very loyal clients who are following me and who are also expecting this kind of adventures, collections. I feel also a lot of respect now from press and buyers that I do it in a different way because it’s really difficult today to find something original. I mean there is a kind of unification going on in fashion and a lot of fashion houses are creating the same things because that’s commercial. It’s really marketing dream even. I’m working the other way.
Yes, there is a way of minimalism fascination right now, that lots of people follow.
Yes, but I’m working through emotions and through excitement and that’s what clients are searching for now, that kind of delight.
And for very unique pieces…
At the end I thing it’s more interesting to buy one piece like that during the season and than put it together with some basic things, to make the look really sophisticated.